Nunavut to Kalaallit Nunaat Expedition: Update 2
As we sailed deeper into Cumberland Sound towards Panniqtuuq and Kekerten Island, the days were filled with shared learning, cultural exchange, and reflection, providing us insight into the interconnectedness of the Arctic’s landscapes, cultures, and histories.
Qikiktat: Whaling history and a warming Arctic
A slower morning aboard the MS Ocean Endeavour gave us the opportunity to attend a talk from the University of Bergen’s Arctic and Indigenous governance professor, Aaron Spitzer. His talk on “Who Owns the Arctic?” stirred conversation about sovereignty, governance, and the region’s shared future. Afterwards, our group split up and took in workshops across the ship: learning Inuktitut, mapping Arctic geography, exploring bird life, knot-tying, mindfulness, embroidery, and watercolouring.
During the bird workshop, Melissa and Riley stepped forward to share Inuit perspectives on birds; their role as seasonal indicators, their importance in stories and song, and the ways they connect people to changing conditions on the land and sea. As we sailed towards Qikiktat (Kekerten Island), we were greeted by loads of jellyfish, amphipods, and Malou even spotted a sea butterfly.
“It was cool! It seemed to add to the diversity of life that isn’t often talked about when thinking of the Arctic. It added to the strange, surreal feeling of being in this place.” — Andrew
Later, we went ashore at Qikiktat, a historic whaling station where the community of Panniqtuuq had recently harvested a bowhead whale as part of its quota. Out of respect for the site, cameras stayed stowed, giving our group a chance to take in the experience with their senses. Several northern youth in our group shared their perspectives on the whale harvest, providing insight into traditional Inuit hunting practices and the importance of food security in the North.
Panniqtuuq: Culture, community, and connection
The next day we landed in Panniqtuuq, where local guides led us through the community’s heart. We visited the museum, Parks Canada visitor centre, arts and crafts centre, and a historic blubber station. We learned about the Inuit adaptation of square dancing, the history of the bowhead whale hunt, and the significance of public art in telling Inuit history. We were thrilled to see stencils and prints by SOI alumni Jolly Atagoyuk, whose art was on display at the art centre.
We enjoyed the privilege of taking in a cultural presentation that brought throat singing, Arctic char and muktuk tastings, and lessons on how to use the qamutik, a traditional Inuit dog sled designed for traversing snow and ice.
“I got goosebumps when the community members started throat singing. I was especially happy to see how young they were, and that they were taking up those important traditions” — Malou
“I found so much comfort seeing rez dogs and fully-loaded Hondas.” — Riley
Meantime, many of us found moments of personal connection. David met a local artisan he’d previously only known virtually. Ijeoma communicated in ASL with a deaf weaver. And several of us reconnected with friends and family in the community. We welcomed 63 community members on board the Ocean Endeavour for lunch. It was a beautiful time of connection, where we shared food, conversation, and laughter together.
The day also held lessons in environmental change. During a river hike, we saw the community’s water source and visible signs of permafrost thaw, a tangible reminder of the impacts of climate change in the North.
Panniqtuuq Fjord: Land, ice, and shared stories
In true expedition style, plans shifted the next day. Instead of heading straight onward, we rerouted from our planned itinerary to head up Panniqtuuq Fjord to the edge of Auyuittuq National Park. The fjord’s walls rose steeply, providing great terrain for hikes of varying difficulty and scenic Zodiac cruises. Several of us drank fresh glacier meltwater from the Penny Ice Cap, and we found some berries that were ripe, fresh and deeeelicious.
Onboard, we enjoyed country food tasting of seal, char, seaweed, reindeer, berries, muktuk (whale), and Labrador tea, all mixed in with a little singin’ and dancin’! Chloe and Sazida shared traditional dances from their culture, and we got to learn dances from the region.
Afternoon workshops ranged from wildlife watching and Arctic navigation to photography tips and the iNaturalist project, a global community-driven database of plants and animals. During meals, we talked a lot about career options in the environmental fields. Learning about different careers that provided opportunities to work in nature was truly eye-opening and inspiring.
Goodbye Nunavut, hello open sea
The next day, we sailed out of Cumberland Sound and entered the Davis Strait, where we were treated to an unforgettable wildlife encounter. Plans for morning workshops were quickly paused as a polar bear sighting was announced on the ship’s loudspeaker. Everyone rushed to the deck with binoculars and cameras in hand to catch a glimpse and a photo of it. The bear appeared relaxed and curious, occasionally sniffing the air and glancing toward the ship. It wandered the ice, then dove gracefully into the water, swimming to another floe before climbing effortlessly back onto the ice. One of the most memorable moments of the journey so far, the experience left the group in awe.
As we head for open water, the expedition’s themes—Inuit culture, Arctic policy, biodiversity, climate change, and the arts—are no longer abstract ideas. They’re lived and shared, woven into every conversation and moment we have together.