Torngat Mountains Expedition 2023: Day 8
Piugilaugiki!
This morning we woke up to an SOI First! It was the first time throughout the SOI travel log in 23 years that we anchored and stayed overnight in Silluak (North Arm Fjord). With an overcast sky and light fog, we embarked on zodiacs and headed to shore to spend the morning with Parks Canada.
With an increase in bear sightings being reported in Silluak, our Parks Canada guides reminded us again of some park guidelines and bear safety procedures. We hiked to a waterfall, crossed a stream, and went swimming in the lake. The views were stunning! Turns out, even on a cold day, swimming in cold water is one of our favourite expedition activities. At the end of our hike, SOI Team Member and bear guard Maria gave us all high-fives for doing a good job staying together and for staying safe. We were all feeling happy from our amazing morning hike. The Arctic char we caught the night before was waiting for us to sample at the bonfire on the shoreline before heading back to the ship.
After lunch, we set sail from Silluak (North Arm Fjord) to Sallikuluk (Rose Island). An island which has been a cultural epicentre for the Inuit cultural landscape, Sallikuluk is the final resting place for 600 Inuit, laid to rest in cairns and burial mounds by their loved ones for 5,000 years. The island has also been used for settlement. The remains of sod houses and tent rings can be found across the landscape.
Mid-route to Silluak, Inuit Elder and Friend of SOI Sophie Keelan sent Geoff a text wishing our Expedition to have a good trip. “It’s as if she felt we were heading to where Sophie spent summers in Silluak with her Family.” Geoff shared. The Torngait spirits are with us.
“Spirits welcome you.” – Sophie Keelan, Labrador Inuit Elder and Friend of SOI
Upon Zodiac landings on the shore of Silluak, the spirits decided to welcome us as there was an aura of calm and peacefulness which set the tone for our time on the island. The water was calm with a light breeze, the sounds of silence, and no bugs. The vegetation across the island is plentiful if one looks close enough; covered in fireweed, berries, and Inuit lettuce. A sprinkling of polar bear droppings and seal bones confirm that this is also their land.
Despite the beauty of the island, we were told the dark recent history of how over 100 Ancestors were disturbed and removed from their graves before finally being repatriated and reburied in a mass grave. There was so much to digest. Seeing the graves up close, we took a moment for deep reflection and were invited to place a stone on the stone cairn as an indication of our presence in a way that would not disturb or alter the grave.
Each day aboard the ship, we feature an Inuktitut word of the day, and today’s word is piugilaugiki which means ‘love it’. After an incredible day in Silluak and Sallikuluk, it’s very clear we can agree, piugilaugki! As our expedition continues, we all realize the unique opportunity we have to explore the deep connections between a place and its people. Just as the sun is setting, we continue to sail North and we look forward to our next anchor in Nachvach.
“Don’t miss the magic. We will see what tomorrow will bring.” – Geoff Green